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Jamaican Caving Notes |
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Mar 27, 2004 WINDSOR GREAT CAVE Position: Main Entrance: WGS84 - 18 21' 04.9" N, 77 38' 50.9" W Field notes: R. S. STEWART Cavers: R. S. Stewart, I. C. Conolley, M. Bellinger, G. van Rentergem, R. Stirling, D. Williams Time in: 11:00 EST, Time out: 20:30 EST THREAT VULNERABILITY: High Saturday, March 27, was the first day of the new expedition. The day before, Guy van Rentergem had flown in from Belgium, I had flown in from Canada, and Mark and Ivor had arrived from Kingston. None of us had actually arrived at Miss Lilly's, in Coxheath, en route to Windsor, until about 10:00 PM, and none of us were asleep until well after midnight. This was a normal start to one of our expeditions; our first day of caving is spent somewhat hung-over and in need of more sleep. We had decided to do Windsor Cave the first day for two reasons: it required no driving, and we very much desired to finish our exploration of the Lower Streamway, this expedition, while the water table was low. We had not had the opportunity to spend a great deal of time in the basement of Windsor Cave for a full year, locked out due to flood risk. At 11:00 AM, the team was assembled at the Main Entrance, and we entered the cave to begin our journey to the first drop. The route through Jaram Top, Royal Flat, Wharf, and then the Brer Rabbit shortcut to the top of the first drop, took us a full hour. This was perhaps due to the size of the team, and because we had a new caver with us. When we make this trip with a team of only three, experienced, cavers, it usually takes 30 minutes. Upon reaching the top of the first pitch, a rope was tied and tossed down, and then a brief demonstration of how to rappel was given to our new caver. The drop is more of a mud-slope than vertical, so it was presumed that this would be a good first practice pitch, it having been used several times in the past by us for that purpose. I rapped down first, and hindsight tells me that I shouldn't have, for apparently some difficulties were encountered by our new caver, and despite advice and encouragement by the more experienced members of the team who still remained above, at the end of it we had only Stewart, Conolley, Bellinger, and van Rentergem at the bottom of the first drop. The time spent for this descent was over 45 minutes compared to our usual 10. We were, at last, close to beginning to accomplish the work intended for the day; a final, definitive map of the Lower Streamway. Things now kicked into high-gear and began to go very smoothly. The descent down the second drop was soon done and the survey began. We divided into two teams. Ivor and Mark took exploration, and Guy and myself took survey. Over the next several hours, we completed the exploration of the Lower Streamway, (or perhaps didn't, because a possible way on was found), and also the mapping of those parts of the system that we had not done before, (i.e. most of it). Ivor and Mark had the fun part, ranging ahead in search of more cave, while Guy and I did the very necessary station by station collection of bearings, distances, and slopes. My turn would eventually come for the fun part at Roehampton School Cave the following weekend, where Mark and Guy slowly worked their way surveying through the passages, while Ivor and I were out front. After more than two hours, Guy and I eventually caught up with Mark and Ivor at the north end of the main stream passage. They had reached the end of the currently do-able route and awaited us for consultation. At the south end of a pooled section of the passage, we at last re-united and were able to learn what they had found. Mark and Ivor, after wading/swimming through the waters, had found a scramble up to a very small opening into what might be a continuing passage, but they reported that it was too tight to get through. Time was getting late, and we had two cavers still waiting at the top of the first drop, so it was agreed that Mark and Ivor would head back to join with the others while Guy and I would cross the pool, further along the passage, to have a look. Ivor and Mark headed back to recover our waiting cavers, and Guy and I pushed into the waters to see what could be seen. At the northernmost part of the Lower Streamway, there are two ways on. One is underwater; the other is high and dry, and very small. The sumped route might never be possible, or only after a very, very long drought. The small upper way, a hole of some 40 cm width, offers potential but will require some work. It apparently carries on, for Guy's shouts into the tiny passage echoed back with a resonance more than what a dead-end would supply. A return visit, to pursue this, is accordingly being put on our to-do list, and we will have a go at it next dry-season with appropriate equipment. Having had a good look, and having had found potential that must wait for another day, Guy and I began our return to the upper level of Windsor Cave. We made good time, back to the scramble out of the Streamway that takes one up into the second drop chamber. At this point, we began to survey once again to complete the initial section of the route that had not been done on our way in, thereby tying it into the survey for the upper level. While doing this, we could hear the others at the first drop, still making their way out of the cave. I found this curious, expecting that they would have been much further ahead of us by this time, but when our turn came on this same pitch, I would understand the reason for the delay. When Guy and I had ascended the second drop, pulled rope, and then moved to the base of the first drop, it was after 6:00 PM. I had had no opportunity since my arrival on the island the night before to pick up batteries, and the second set of those that I had brought down, changed some hours before, were now getting rapidly dimmer. I will chalk this up to first-day disorganization, but nevertheless I had no other batteries, or lights, that were likely to last until we were out of the cave. I was now running on the assumption that out of the six cavers in the cave, there would be enough light left to enable the guide, that being me, to lead us back home. I was also hopeful that we could cruise out from the first drop in our usual 30 minutes. This was not to be. I must at this point give great thanks to Ivor for his knowledge and experience of Windsor Cave. When he and Mark had ascended the first drop, Ivor had concerns as to whether the rope had been pulled up by their very muddy ascent and was now unreachable for Guy and I. In fact, it was, and Ivor's remaining at the top of the first drop until Guy and I reached the bottom was instrumental in ensuring that we indeed had a rope that we could ascend. What ensued after our arrival at the bottom of this pitch was echoing communications determining whether the line was still reaching bottom. It was not, and a number of attempts were made by Ivor to pitch the rope back down before a successful effort resulted in Guy and I having a life-line that would allow us to get back up the first drop of Windsor Cave. My usual visits to Windsor Cave have been in parties of 2 or 3. The first drop, muddy to the extreme, has been possible to ascend without the use of Jumars by wrapping one's hands around the rope and manually hauling oneself up. Today, because of much more activity on the rope, it was impossible because of mud build-up. With much exertion, heading up first, I attempted to spare my Jumars the wear and tear of the mud by keeping them in my backpack. After several unsuccessful attempts, I resorted to using one. This still proved frustrating. Finally, I broke down and used both Jumars. During the ascent, I thought of the mud eroding them the entire way. I assisted this process with a number of well-constructed curses, and by this method made my way up. Guy soon followed, in relative silence, using both of his ascenders. Once we were both up, I roundly berated the first drop in no uncertain terms, to Guy's bemusement. Guy and I had again caught up with the rest of the team at the top of the first drop, there having been some confusion as to the route. With an ever-dimming headlamp, I began guiding the group out. I am quite proud of the hour that followed as I led us out of Windsor Cave. My headlamp was so feeble that I could only see the ground below my feet and vague outlines of formations on either side. Our new caver, having done what I requested of him, had kept his light off during most of his wait at the top of the first drop, and still had enough lumens available, if I needed his headlamp, to allow me to find my way, but I didn't want to break down and scoop his light until absolutely necessary. I managed to get us halfway out before I did this. The entire team, other than Guy with a 150-hour back-up LED headlamp, was low on light and literally stumbling through the dark. I had no fear; if there were any light at all, I could find my way through Windsor Cave. I had the formations at critical points committed to memory. I knew each and every chamber. This was my home-turf. At 8:30 PM, more than nine hours after we had entered Windsor Cave, we finally emerged into a dark Cockpit Country night. The trek out to Windsor was soon done, and after a quick wash at the Last Resort, we rolled up to Miss Lilly's for some well-earned Red Stripe. I must note that this was my first time caving with Guy van Rentergem and I was very impressed. A very daunting slither of a side-passage in the Lower Streamway, which I would have attempted after only much deliberation, was done by Guy in a truly fine fashion. It is now named the Belgium Squeeze. His calm, quiet ascent of the horribly muddy first drop was very professional. His hours of work spent mapping the Streamway were inspiring. I have no hopes of changing my approach to something like the first drop at Windsor, that being to let it know that I am aware of its intention, and that I will not take it quietly, but Guy's professional, and fearless, approach to exploration, and mapping, is something I intend to emulate in the future. |
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